Powdery emulsifying composition of alkyl polyglycosides, use thereof for preparing cosmetic emulsions, and method for preparing same

ABSTRACT

A powdery composition C1 contains for 100% of the mass: 5 to 70 mass % and more particularly 10 to 50 mass % of at least one compound of formula (I): R—O-(G) x -H, wherein R is a linear saturated aliphatic radical including 12 to 22 carbon atoms, G is the remainder of a reducing sugar selected from the group including glucose, xylose and arabinose, and x is a decimal number greater than or equal to 1 and lower than or equal to 10; 95 to 30 mass % and more particularly 90 to 50 mass % of one or more alcohols of formula (II): R′—OH, wherein R′ is a linear saturated aliphatic radical including 12 to 22 carbon atoms identical to or different from R as defined in formula (I), wherein at least 90 vol % of the particles have a diameter lower than or equal to 250 micrometers, more particularly a diameter lower than or equal to 150 micrometers.

The invention relates to the provision of novel emulsifying compositionsthat can be used in the preparation of cosmetic and/or pharmaceuticalformulations in particular for topical use.

Sugar-derived emulsifiers have been developed for more than about twentyyears and their commercial success requires no further demonstration.They consist of a mixture of alkyl polyglycosides and/or alkenylpolyglycosides and of fatty alcohols, and are available on the market insolid form, whether as flakes, powder or beads. Such emulsifiers aredescribed in the international applications published under numbers WO92/06778, WO 95/13863, WO 96/37285. WO 98/47610 or FR 2784904. They makeit possible to prepare stable emulsions in oil-in-water or water-in-oilform. The presence of an amount of fatty alcohols of greater than 30% byweight for 100% of the weight of these compositions creates aconsistency and sensory properties which are advantageous, for instancea rich and creamy feel of the final emulsion.

Patent application FR 2 756 195 discloses emulsifying compositionsintended for the preparation of emulsions with improved stability, andparticularly intended for preparing stable fluid emulsions. Thesecompositions comprise:

i) from 30% to 90% by weight of a mixture of at least one alkylpolyglycoside of which the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturatedalkyl radical contains from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one alkylpolyglycoside of which the alkyl radical is an oleyl radical or anisostearyl radical, and

ii) from 10% to 70% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol of which thelinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals contain from8 to 22 carbon atoms.

Application EP 0 992 508 discloses emulsifying compositions intended forimproving the whiteness of the emulsions prepared, and which comprise:

i) from 5% to 60% by weight of a mixture of alkyl polyglycosidescomprising, for 100% of its weight:

-   -   from 30% to 95% by weight of a mixture of cetyl polyglycosides        and stearyl polyglycosides,    -   from 70% to 5% by weight of a mixture of arachidyl        polyglycosides and behenyl polyglycosides:

ii) from 95% to 40% by weight of one or more fatty alcohols of which thelinear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals contain from14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The final emulsions are generally prepared by dispersion of theseemulsifiers, either in water or in a polar phase, or in an oily phase.They are therefore preheated to a temperature above their melting point,which, according to the commercial compositions, is between 60 and 80°C., before being dispersed in the aqueous or oily phase of the finalemulsion, which, in certain cases, constitutes an impairment to theircommercial expansion since said final emulsions may also comprisethermosensitive and/or volatile ingredients. In addition, their use forproducing oil-in-water emulsions is also impaired since they sometimesinduce phase inversion, which results in an unwanted change in thedirection of the final emulsion, to a water-in-oil emulsion.

In order to solve the problems linked to an emulsion preparationtemperature that is too high, the aim has been to develop mixtures ofalkyl polyglycosides and of fatty alcohols which are liquid at ordinarytemperature, in order to avoid this melting operation during thepreparation of the final emulsion. For this, branched or unsaturatedfatty alcohols have been used to produce such mixtures. Such liquidemulsifiers are described in the international application publishedunder number WO 00/56438 or else in the French patent applicationpublished under number FR 2 830 464. Such liquid compositions, owing totheir very lipophilic nature, do not make it possible to prepareoil-in-water emulsions which are sufficiently stable and/or which havesensory properties that are sufficiently satisfactory for the finalclient.

In the context of their research on the constant improvement ofemulsifiers for preparing “oil-in-water” emulsions which do not have theabovementioned drawbacks, the inventors have developed novel emulsifyingcompositions, and also a novel method for preparing oil-in-wateremulsions, which make it possible to prepare emulsions that are stablein the presence of thermosensitive and/or volatile ingredients, withoutthe appearance of phase inversion phenomena during their preparation,and which provide said emulsions with advantageous sensory properties,such as a rich and creamy feel.

According to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is apulverulent composition C1 comprising, for 100% of its weight:

-   -   from 5% by weight to 70% by weight, more particularly from 10%        by weight to 50% by weight, of at least one compound of formula        (I):        R—O-(G)_(x)-H  (I)        in which the R radical represents a saturated linear aliphatic        radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents the        residue of a reducing sugar selected from the group consisting        of glucose, xylose and arabinose, and x represents a decimal        number greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10;    -   from 95% by weight to 30% by weight, more particularly from 90%        by weight to 50% by weight, of one or more alcohols of formula        (II):        R′—OH  (II)        in which the R′ radical, which may be identical to or different        than the R radical as defined above, represents a saturated        linear aliphatic radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms,        and in which at least 90% by volume of the particles have a        diameter of less than or equal to 250 micrometers, and more        particularly a diameter of less than or equal to 150        micrometers.

The expression “saturated linear aliphatic radical containing from 12 to22 carbon atoms” denotes, in particular for R in formula (I) as definedabove, for example dodecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl, octadecyl, eicosyland docosyl radicals.

The expression “saturated linear aliphatic radical containing from 12 to22 carbon atoms” denotes, in particular for R′ in formula (II) asdefined above, a radical which may be identical to or different than theR radical of formula (I) as defined above, for example dodecyl,tetradecyl, hexadecyl, octadecyl, eicosyl and docosyl radicals.

In formula (I) as defined above, x is a decimal number which representsthe average degree of polymerization of the residue G.

When x is an integer, (G)_(x) is the polymer residue of rank x of theresidue G.

When x is a decimal number, formula (I) represents a mixture ofcompounds:a ₁R—O-(G)₁-H+a ₂R—O-(G)₂-H+a ₃R—O-(G)₃-H+ . . . +a _(q)R—O-(G)_(q)-Hwith q representing an integer between 1 and 10 and in the molarproportions a₁, a₂, a₃, . . . a_(q) such that:q=1Σa _(q)=1;a ₁>0q=10

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, informula (I) as defined above, x is between 1.05 and 5, and moreparticularly between 1.05 and 2.

The term “residue of a reducing sugar” denotes, for G in formula (I) asdefined above, a residue of saccharide derivatives that do not containin their structures a glycosidic bond established between an anomericcarbon and the oxygen of an acetal group as defined in the referencepublication: “Biochemistry”, Daniel Voet/Judith G. Voet, p. 250, JohnWyley & Sons, 1990. The oligomeric structure (G)_(x) may be in anyisomeric form, whether it is a case of optical isomerism, geometricisomerism or positional isomerism; it may also represent mixtures ofisomers.

In formula (I) as defined above, the R radical is linked to G via theanomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetalfunction.

According to one particular aspect of the present invention, the term“residue of a reducing sugar” denotes, in formula (I) as defined above,the glucose residue.

According to another particular aspect of the present invention, theterm “residue of a reducing sugar” denotes, in formula (I) as definedabove, the xylose residue.

The expression: “the pulverulent composition C1 comprises at least 90%by volume of particles having a diameter of less than or equal to 250micrometers, and more particularly a diameter of less than or equal to150 micrometers” means, in the context of the present invention, thatthe pulverulent composition C1 is a powder of particles comparable tospheres, 90% by volume of which have a diameter of less than or equal to250 micrometers, and more particularly less than or equal to 150micrometers.

The determination of this parameter is carried out by means of a laserdiffraction analyzer, for example the Malvern Mastersize™ 2000 laserparticle sizer, equipped with a dispersing device, for example theMS1-Small Volume Sample Dispersion™ dispersing device, and connected tocalculation software, which makes it possible to obtain a diffractogramconsisting of a superposition of the diffraction images of each size ofparticles represented in the powder analyzed. In the analysis of thedata thus collected, an initial size distribution is estimated and thetheoretical diffractogram is calculated, and then compared with the realdata recorded. The differences between the estimated data and the realdata are then minimized using the least squares method. The softwarethen calculates the distribution by volume as fundamental result and anyother information is deduced from this result by assuming that theparticles have a spherical shape.

This method of determination is particularly suitable for thecharacterization of powders which are made up of particles that arecomparable to spheres having diameters of between 3000 micrometers and0.1 micrometers, and for dry powders. The use of this type of method hasparticularly shown good results for particle sizes of greater than 10micrometers [P. Bowen, “Particle Size Distribution Measurement fromMillimeters to Nanometers and from Rods to Platelets”: J. DispersionScience and Technology, 23(5), pp. 631-662 (2002)].

The preparation of the pulverulent composition C1 which is the subjectof the present invention comprises:

-   -   a step A) of glycosylation of the alcohols of formula (II) as        defined above, with a reducing sugar, as defined above, followed    -   by a step B) of milling the products obtained in the form of        solids at the end of step A).

The glycosylation reaction, carried out in step A), of the alcohols offormula (II) as defined above with a reducing sugar is well known tothose skilled in the art and is described in the patent applicationspublished under document numbers WO 92/06778, WO 96/37286, WO 95/13863,WO 98/47610 and FR 2784904. It is generally carried out in a reactor inthe presence of an acidic catalytic system, with the stoichiometricratio between the two reactants being controlled, and with mechanicalstirring under predetermined temperature and partial vacuum conditions,for example at a temperature of between 70° C. and 130° C. and under apartial vacuum of between 300 mbar (3×10⁴ Pa) and 20 mbar (2×10³ Pa).

The term “acidic catalytic system” denotes strong acids such as sulfuricacid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, nitric acid, hypophosphorousacid, methanesulfonic acid, para-toluenesulfonic acid,trifluoromethanesulfonic acid or ion-exchange resins. Such aglycosylation process can be supplemented and, if necessary or ifdesired, by neutralizing, filtering or discoloring operations.

The milling of the solid composition obtained at the end of step A)described above and which is in the form of an undivided solid, forinstance in the form of beads or flakes, is carried out during step B)by means of a knife mill or by means of a device using the cyromillingmicronization technique, so as to obtain, at the end of this millingstep B), a pulverulent composition C1 which is the subject of thepresent invention.

The cryomilling micronization technique, consisting in freezing thesolid composition resulting from step A) described above by means ofliquid nitrogen or liquid carbon dioxide, before carrying out themilling operation, is preferentially chosen for preparing thepulverulent emulsifying composition C1 which is the subject of thepresent invention.

According to a more particular aspect, the pulverulent composition C1which is the subject of the present invention comprises a non-zeroproportion by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ia),corresponding to formula (I) as defined above in which R represents asaturated linear aliphatic radical containing from 20 to 22 carbonatoms, and a non-zero proportion by weight of at least one alcohol offormula (IIa), corresponding to formula (II) as defined above in whichR′ represents a saturated linear aliphatic radical containing from 20 to22 carbon atoms.

According to another more particular aspect, the pulverulent compositionC1 which is the subject of the present invention comprises, for 100% ofits weight:

-   -   from 5% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one compound of        formula (Ia);    -   from 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one compound of        formula (Ib) corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, in        which R represents a saturated linear aliphatic radical        containing from 12 to 14 carbon atoms;    -   from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one compound of        formula (Ic) corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, in        which R represents a saturated linear aliphatic radical        containing from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;    -   from 45% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one compound of        formula (IIa);    -   from 5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one compound of        formula (IIb) corresponding to formula (II) as defined above, in        which R′ represents a saturated linear aliphatic radical        containing from 12 to 14 carbon atoms; and    -   from 0% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one compound of        formula (IIc) corresponding to formula (II) as defined above, in        which R′ represents a saturated linear aliphatic radical        containing from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.

According to another more particular aspect, the pulverulent compositionC1 which is the subject of the present invention comprises, for 100% ofits weight:

-   -   from 5% by weight to 70% by weight of at least one compound of        formula (Ic), and    -   from 95% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one compound of        formula (IIc).

According to another more particular aspect, the pulverulent compositionC1 which is the subject of the present invention comprises at least 90%by volume of particles having a diameter of less than or equal to 100micrometers, and more particularly a diameter of less than or equal to50 micrometers.

According to another aspect, a subject of the invention is the use of apulverulent composition C1 as described above, as an emulsifier forpreparing emulsions. Said emulsions may be of oil-in-water type,water-in-oil type, water-in-oil-in-water type and oil-in-water-in-oiltype, and said emulsions may be in the form of creams, milks, creamgels, fluid emulsions and vaporizable fluid emulsions.

In the context of the invention, the term “fluid emulsion” is intendedto mean an emulsion of which the flow through a 6-millimeter ISO 2431flow cup begins less than 5 seconds after removal of the stopper (testaccording to international standard ISO 2431). By way of fluidemulsions, mention may in particular be made of milks, in particularmilks of the oil-in-water type, for cosmetic or hygiene use, such asmakeup-removing milks, body milks, sun milks or self-tanning milks. Byway of vaporizable fluid emulsions, mention may in particular be made ofsprayable fluid emulsions comprising a cosmetically acceptablepropellant gas.

According to another aspect, a subject of the invention is a method forpreparing an oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion by emulsification of a fattyphase P1 with an aqueous phase P2, comprising at least a step a) ofpreparing said fatty phase P1 which comprises mixing at least one ormore oils and/or one or more waxes, with an effective amount of thepulverulent composition C1, as defined above.

Surprisingly, owing to the fact that at least 90% by volume of theparticles of the pulverulent composition C1 have a diameter of less thanor equal to 250 micrometers, more particularly a diameter of less thanor equal to 150 micrometers, more particularly a diameter of less thanor equal to 100 micrometers and even more particularly less than orequal to 50 micrometers.

In the method which is the subject of the invention, step a) ofpreparing the fatty phase P1 by mixing one or more oils and/or one ormore waxes with a pulverulent composition C1 as described above can beadvantageously carried out at a temperature below the theoreticalmelting point of the pulverulent composition C1, at a temperature ofless than or equal to 70° C., more particularly at a temperature ofbetween 20° C. and 60° C., and even more particularly at a temperatureof between 20° C. and 40° C.

Step a) of the method which is the subject of the invention can becarried out by means of any mixing device known to those skilled in theart, for example by means of a stirring device fitted with an “anchor”spindle, at stirring speeds of between 800 rpm and 1000 rpm, and forinstance by means of a rotor-stator stirring device at stirring speedsof between 1000 rpm and 8000 rpm.

In the method as defined above, the expression “effective amount ofpulverulent composition C1” is intended to mean a proportion by weightthat is generally between 1% by weight and 10% by weight of the totalweight of the emulsion.

In the method as defined above, among the constituent oils of the fattyphase P1 prepared during step a), mention may be made of:

-   -   volatile oils. The term “volatile oil” is intended to mean, in        the present description, any oil which is capable of evaporating        on contact with the skin and/or which has a low flashpoint, i.e.        which has a flashpoint of less than approximately 100° C., and        more particularly a flashpoint between 30° C. and 85° C. As        volatile oil, mention may be made of branched-chain        hydrocarbon-based oils preferably containing from 6 to 20 carbon        atoms, for instance isoparaffins, isohexadecane, identified in        Chemical Abstracts by the RN mnumber=93685-80-4 and which is a        mixture of C₁₂, C₁₆ and C₂₀ isoparaffins containing at least 97%        of C₁₆ isoparaffins, among which the main constituent is        2,2,4,4,6,8,8-heptamethylnonane (RN=4390-04-9), and isododecane,        and linear or cyclic, volatile silicone oils, such as        cyclomethicones, for instance cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and        cyclopentadimethylsiloxane;    -   mineral oils, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly,        isoparaffins or white mineral oils;    -   oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane;    -   plant oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut        oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, groundnut        oil, sunflower oil, wheatgerm oil, corn germ oil, soya oil,        cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil, pumpkin oil, evening        primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil,        candlenut oil, passion flower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea        butter, apricot kernel oil, beauty leaf oil, sysymbrium oil,        avocado oil, calendula oil, and oils derived from flowers or        from vegetables;    -   ethoxylated plant oils;    -   synthetic oils, for instance fatty acid esters such as butyl        myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl        palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl        stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate,        hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from        lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate or isocetyl lanolate,        fatty acid monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides, for        instance glyceryl triheptanoate, alkyl benzoates, hydrogenated        oils, poly-α-olefins, polyolefins such as polyisobutene,        synthetic isoalkanes, hydrogenated polydecene or hydrogenated        polyisobutene, sold in France by the company Ets B. Rossow et        Cie under the name Parleam-Polysynlane™, mentioned in Michel and        Irene Ash; Thesaurus of Chemical Products, Chemical Publishing        Co, Inc. 1986 Volume I, page 211 (ISBN 0 7131 3603 0), perfluoro        oils; and    -   silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes,        methylphenylpolysiloxanes, silicones modified with amines,        silicones modified with fatty acids, silicones modified with        alcohols, silicones modified with alcohols and with fatty acids,        silicones modified with polyether groups, epoxy-modified        silicones, silicones modified with fluoro groups, cyclic        silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups.

In the method as defined above, among the constituent waxes of the fattyphase P1 prepared during step a), mention may be made of beeswax,carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax,sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes,lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax, silicone waxes; plant waxes;fatty alcohols and fatty acids which are solid at ambient temperature;glycerides which are solid at ambient temperature.

In the method which is the subject of the invention and as describedabove, the fatty phase P1 prepared during step a) may also compriselipophilic and/or lipodispersible active agents, and more particularlytemperature-sensitive lipophilic and/or lipodispersible active agents.Among the lipophilic and/or lipodispersible active agents that may beincluded in the fatty phase P1 prepared during step a) of the methodwhich the subject of the invention, mention may be made of liposolubleand/or lipodispersible compounds which have a lightening or depigmentingaction, a hydrating action, a tensioning action, a soothing or relaxingaction, an anti-inflammatory action, a slimming action, a lipolyticaction, a draining action, a detoxifying action, an energizing ordecontracting action, a stimulant action, an emollient action, aneuromodulatory action, a protective action, a purifying,sebum-regulating or anti-hair loss action, an anti-aging action, or afirming, restructuring, free-radical-scavenging or antioxidant action.Such active ingredients are, for example, N-acylated proteins,N-acylated peptides, for instance Matrixil™, N-acylated amino acids,which are in their acid forms, for instance theN-(ω-undecylenoyl)phenylalanine sold by the company SEPPIC under thename Sepiwhite™ MSH, the N-octanoylglycine sold by the company SEPPICunder the name Lipacide™ C8G, the N-undecylenoylglycine sold by thecompany SEPPIC under the name Lipacide™ UG, partial hydrolysates ofN-acylated proteins, amino acids, peptides, total hydrolysates ofproteins, liposoluble vitamins, liposoluble vitamin derivatives, forinstance retinol, vitamin E and its derivatives, lipids in general,lipids such as ceramides or phospholipids, active agents which have aslimming or lipolytic action, such as caffeine or its derivatives,panthenol and its derivatives, such as Sepicap™ MP, anti-aging activeagents such as Sepilif™ DPHP or Lipacide™ PVB, active agents whichincrease the synthesis of extracellular matrix components, for examplecollagen, elastins and glycosaminoglycans, active agents which actfavorably on chemical cell communication, such as cytokines, or physicalcell communication, such as integrins, active agents which create a“hot” sensation on the skin, such as skin microcirculation activators(for example nicotinates) or products which create a feeling of“freshness” on the skin (for example menthol and derivatives thereof).Among the heat-sensitive liposoluble and/or lipodispersible activeagents, mention may, for example, be made of vitamin E, vitamin Ederivatives; essential oils recognized for their antiseptic actions, forinstance Thymus vulgaris, for their anti-inflammatory actions, forinstance Syzygium aromaticum, or for their healing and protectiveactions, for instance Lavandulla officinalis: fragrances; odorant andolfactory bases: carotene; vitamin A and derivatives thereof;polyunsaturated fatty acids; colorants.

According to one particular aspect, the method for preparing anoil-in-water emulsion which is the subject of the invention describedabove also comprises:

-   -   at least one step b) of mixing the fatty phase P1 obtained at        the end of step a) with an effective amount of a polyelectrolyte        so as to obtain a phase P′1, then    -   at least one step c) of emulsifying said phase P′1 obtained at        the end of step b), with said aqueous phase P2.

The term “polyelectrolyte polymer” is intended to mean, in the presentdescription, polymers comprising in their backbone at least one monomercomprising at least one ionic electrical charge associated with acounterion. Among the polyelectrolyte-type polymers that can be used instep b) of the method which is the subject of the invention, mention maybe made of:

-   -   homopolymers based on a monomer having a partially or totally        salified strong acid function,    -   homopolymers based on a monomer having a partially or totally        salified weak acid function,    -   homopolymers based on a cationic monomer,    -   polymers based on at least one monomer having a partially or        totally salified strong acid function, said monomer being        polymerized:        -   either with at least one monomer having a partially or            totally salified weak acid function,        -   or with at least one neutral monomer,    -   polymers based on at least one cationic monomer polymerized with        at least one neutral monomer,    -   polymers based on at least one monomer having a partially or        totally salified weak acid function, said monomer being        polymerized:        -   either with at least one monomer having a partially or            totally salified weak acid function,        -   or with at least one neutral monomer,    -   polymers based on at least one monomer having a hydrophobic        alkyl chain, polymerized with at least one monomer having a        partially or totally salified weak acid function, and/or with at        least one monomer having a partially or totally salified strong        acid function, and/or with a neutral monomer.

In this context, the expression “partially or totally salified” meansthat the strong acid functions or weak acid functions are partially ortotally salified in the form, in particular, of alkali metal salts, suchas the sodium salt or the potassium salt, of an ammonium salt or of anamino alcohol salt, for instance the monoethanolamine salt.

The strong acid function of the monomer may in particular be thesulfonic acid function or the phosphonic acid function, said functionsbeing partially or totally salified. Said monomer will be advantageouslyselected from styrenesulfonic acid or 2-sulfoethyl methacrylate, orstyrenephosphonic acid, partially or totally salified, or2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS),partially or totally salified, in sodium salt, potassium salt, ammoniumsalt or monoethanolamine salt form.

The weak acid function of the monomer may in particular be the partiallyor totally salified carboxylic acid function. Said monomer may beespecially selected from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acidor maleic acid partially or totally salified in sodium salt, potassiumsalt, ammonium salt or monoethanolamine salt form.

When the polymer is a copolymer based on a monomer having a partially ortotally salified strong acid function, copolymerized with at least oneneutral monomer, said neutral monomer is selected from acrylamide,methacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, 2-hydroxyethylacrylate. 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl methacrylateor an ethoxylated derivative, having a molecular weight of between 400and 1000, of each of these hydroxylated esters,tris(hydroxymethyl)acrylamidomethane ortris(hydroxymethyl)methacrylamidomethane or an ethoxylated derivative,having a molecular weight of between 400 and 1500, of these amides.

The polyelectrolyte polymers described above may be “branched” or“crosslinked”. The term “branched polymer” denotes a nonlinear polymerwhich has pendant chains so as to obtain, when this polymer is dissolvedin water, a high state of entanglement, resulting in very highlow-gradient viscosities. The term “crosslinked polymer” denotes anonlinear polymer existing in the water-insoluble but water-swellablethree-dimensional network state and thus resulting in the production ofa chemical gel.

When the polymer is crosslinked and/or branched, the crosslinking agentand/or the branching agent is in particular selected from diethylenecompounds and polyethylene compounds, and most particularly fromdiallyloxyacetic acid or a salt thereof, and in particular the sodiumsalt thereof, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, ethyleneglycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylurea ormethylene(bis)acrylamide.

The crosslinking and/or branching agent is generally used in a molarproportion, expressed relative to the monomers used, of from 0.005 mol %to 1 mol %, preferably from 0.01 mol % to 0.2 mol %, and even morepreferentially from 0.01 mol % to 0.1 mol %.

Among the polyelectrolyte-type polymers which are most particularlysuitable for carrying out step b) of the method which is the subject ofthe invention, mention may be made of copolymers of partially or totallysalified acrylic acid and of partially or totally salified2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS),copolymers of acrylamide and of partially or totally salified2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS),copolymers of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and of partially or totallysalified 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid(AMPS), the homopolymer of partially or totally salified acrylic acid,the homopolymer of partially or totally salified2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS),copolymers of acryloylethyltrimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide,copolymers of AMPS and of vinylpyrrolidone, and copolymers of acrylicacid and of alkyl acrylates in which the carbon-based chain containsbetween ten and thirty carbon atoms.

Such polymers are obtained by preparation methods known to those skilledin the art, among which mention may be made of suspension polymerizationmethods, methods of precipitation polymerization in the presence of asolvent, inverse suspension polymerization methods and reverse-phasepolymerization methods.

Such polyelectrolyte polymers are in the form of powders, suspensions,emulsions or inverse emulsions.

Such polyelectrolyte polymers are sold under the names Simulgel™ EG,Sepigel™ 305, Simulgel™ NS, Simulgel™ 800, Simulgel™ A, Simulgel™ EPG,Simulgel™ INS, Simulgel™ FL, Simulgel™ SMS 88, Sepigel™ 501, Sepigel™502, Sepiplus™ 250, Sepiplus™ 265, Sepiplus™ 400, Sepiplus™ S, Sepinov™EMT 10, Carbopol™, Ultrezr™ 10, Aculyn™, Pemulen™ TR1, Pemulen™ TR2,Luvigel™ EM, Salcare™ SC91, Salcare™ SC92, Salcare™ SC95, Salcare™ SC96,Flocare™ ET100, Flocare™ ET58, Hispagel™, Novemer™ EC1, Aristoflex™ AVC,Aristoflex™ HBM, Rapithix™ A60, Rapithix™ A100, Cosmedia™ SP andStabileze™ 06.

The expression “effective amount of polyelectrolyte polymer” signifiesthat the dry weight of said polyelectrolyte polymer constitutes between0.1% by weight and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.5% by weight and2% by weight, for 100% of the weight of the fatty phase P′1 prepared instep b) of the method which is the subject of the invention, if such apolyelectrolyte polymer results from a precipitation polymerizationmethod.

The dry weight of said polyelectrolyte polymer constitutes between 0.25%by weight and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.5% by weight and 2% byweight, for 100% of the weight of the fatty phase P′1 prepared in stepb) of the method which is the subject of the invention, if such apolyelectrolyte polymer results from an inverse emulsion polymerizationmethod.

The expression “cosmetically acceptable” used in the definition of theaqueous phase employed during step c) of the method for preparing anoil-in-water cosmetic emulsion which is the subject of the inventiondescribes, according to European Economic Community Council DirectiveNo. 76/768/EEC of Jul. 27, 1976, amended by directive No. 93/35/EEC ofJun. 14, 1993, any substance or preparation intended to be brought intocontact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, body hairand head hair system, nails, lips and genital organs) or with the teethor the oral mucosae, for the purpose, exclusively and principally, ofcleaning them, of fragrancing them, of modifying the appearance thereofand/or of correcting body odors thereof and/or of protecting them or ofmaintaining them in good condition. A cosmetically acceptable aqueousphase conventionally contains water, one or more cosmetically acceptableorganic solvents, or a mixture of water and one or more organicsolvents. The cosmetically acceptable solvents may more particularly beselected from polyhydric alcohols, for instance glycerol, diglycercol,glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol,hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol or sorbitol, orwater-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol.

In the method which is the subject of the invention and as describedabove, the cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase P2 may also comprisewater-soluble and/or water-dispersible active agents, and moreparticularly temperature-sensitive water-soluble and/orwater-dispersible active agents. Among the water-soluble and/orwater-dispersible active agents that may be included in the cosmeticallyacceptable aqueous phase P2, mention may be made of water-soluble and/orwater-dispersible compounds which have a lightening or depigmentingaction, a hydrating action, a tensioning action, a soothing or relaxingaction, an anti-inflammatory action, a slimming action, a lipolyticaction, a draining action, a detoxifying action, an energizing ordecontracting action, a stimulant action, an emollient action, aneuromodulatory action, a protective action, a purifying,sebum-regulating or anti-hair loss action, an anti-aging action, or afirming, restructuring, free-radical-scavenging or antioxidant action.Such active ingredients are, for example, water-soluble and/orwater-dispersible vitamins, for instance vitamin C and derivativesthereof, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and derivatives thereof, ascorbylglucoside, phytic acid, fruit acids, aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic oraqueous-glycolic extracts of polyphenols, of quinoa, of parsnip, ofpotentilla, of grape, of wine, olive extracts, grape-cake extracts,polyols (for example glycerol or butylene glycol), milk derivatives, orthe various components that go to make up the composition of NMF(natural moisturizing factor), for example urea, pyrrolidonecarboxylicacid or derivatives of this acid, amino acids, mineral salts, sugars orsugar derivatives, polysaccharides or derivatives thereof, hydroxyacids, for example lactic acid, aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic oraqueous-glycolic plant extracts, such as tannin-rich plant extracts,isoflavon-rich plant extracts or terpene-rich plant extracts, extractsof fresh water or marine algae, marine extracts in general, such ascorals, bacterial extracts; minerals, such as Givobio™, calciumderivatives, magnesium derivatives, copper derivatives, cobaltderivatives, zinc derivatives, lithium derivatives or manganesederivatives, silver salts or gold salts; active agents which have anenergizing or stimulant property, such as Sepitonic™ M3 or Physiogenyl™;self-tanning active agents, for example dihydroxyacetone anderythrulose; active agents which moisturize or restructure theepidermis, for instance Aquaxyl™, N-acylated amino acids which are intheir salified forms, for instance the sodium or potassium or ammoniumor amino alcohol salts of N-(ω-undecylenoyl)phenylalanine, ofoctanoylglycine or of undecylenoylglycine, the salts of N-acylatedprotein partial hydrolysates, amino acids, and total proteinhydrolysates. Among the heat-sensitive water-soluble and/orwater-dispersible active agents, mention may, for example, be made ofself-tanning active agents, for instance dihydroxyacetone anderythrulose; honey; floral waters, for instance barley water made fromthe young shoots of the plant; vitamin C and derivatives thereof;aqueous hydrogen peroxide.

Surprisingly, owing to the fact that at least 90% by volume of theparticles of the pulverulent emulsifying composition C1 have a diameterof less than or equal to 250 micrometers, more particularly a diameterof less than or equal to 150 micrometers, more particularly a diameterof less than or equal to 100 micrometers and even more particularly lessthan or equal to 50 micrometers,

In the method which is the subject of the invention, step c) of mixingthe phase P′1 obtained at the end of step b) with the cosmeticallyacceptable aqueous phase P2 can be advantageously carried out at atemperature of less than or equal to 70° C., more particularly at atemperature of between 20° C. and 60° C., and even more particularly ata temperature of between 20° C. and 40° C.

Step c) of the method which is the subject of the invention can becarried out by means of any mixing device known to those skilled in theart, for instance by means of a stirring device fitted with an “anchor”spindle, at stirring speeds of between 80 rpm and 1000 rpm, and forinstance by means of a rotor-stator stirring device at stirring speedsof between 1000 rpm and 8000 rpm.

According to one particular aspect of the invention, a variant of themethod for preparing an oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion as defined abovecomprises at least one step b′ of emulsifying said fatty phase P′obtained in step a), with said polyelectrolyte polymer and said aqueousphase P2.

Surprisingly, owing to the fact that at least 90% by volume of theparticles of the pulverulent emulsifying composition C1 have a diameterof less than or equal to 250 micrometers, more particularly a diameterof less than or equal to 150 micrometers, more particularly a diameterof less than or equal to 100 micrometers and even more particularly lessthan or equal to 50 micrometers, in the variant of the method which isthe subject of the invention, step b′) of mixing the fatty phase P1obtained at the end of step a), with a polyelectrolyte polymer asdescribed above and with an aqueous phase P2 as described above, can beadvantageously carried out at a temperature of less than 70° C., moreparticularly at a temperature of between 20° C. and 60° C., and evenmore particularly at a temperature of between 20° C. and 40° C.

Step b′) of the variant of the method which is the subject of theinvention can be carried out by means of any mixing device known tothose skilled in the art, for instance by means of a stirring devicefitted with an “anchor” spindle, at stirring speeds of between 80 rpmand 1000 rpm, and for instance by means of a rotor-stator stirringdevice at stirring speeds of between 1000 rpm and 8000 rpm.

According to another aspect, a subject of the invention is a method forpreparing an oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion by emulsification of a fattyphase with an aqueous phase D1 with a fatty phase D2, comprising a stepa1) of preparing said aqueous phase D1 which comprises mixing aneffective amount of the pulverulent emulsifying composition C1, asdefined in one of claims 1 to 5, with water or an aqueous dispersion ofone or more cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic ingredients.

The term “cosmetically acceptable hydrophilic ingredients” is intendedto mean, for example, the water-soluble and/or water-dispersible activeagents as described above, and more particularly temperature-sensitivewater-soluble and/or water-dispersible active agents as described above.

Step a1) of the method which is the subject of the invention can becarried out by means of any mixing device known to those skilled in theart, for instance by means of a stirring device fitted with an “anchor”spindle, at stirring speeds of between 80 rpm and 1000 rpm, and forinstance by means of a rotor-stator stirring device at stirring speedsof between 1000 rpm and 8000 rpm.

Surprisingly, owing to the fact that at least 90% by volume of theparticles of the pulverulent emulsifying composition C1 have a diameterof less than or equal to 250 micrometers, more particularly a diameterof less than or equal to 150 micrometers, more particularly a diameterof less than or equal to 100 micrometers and even more particularly lessthan or equal to 50 micrometers,

In the method which is the subject of the invention, step a1) ofpreparing the dispersion D1 by mixing the pulverulent emulsifyingcomposition C1 as defined above, with the cosmetically acceptableaqueous phase, can be advantageously carried out at a temperature ofless than or equal to 70° C., more particularly at a temperature ofbetween 20° C. and 60° C., and even more particularly at a temperatureof between 20° C. and 40° C.

According to one particular aspect, the method for preparing anoil-in-water emulsion which is the subject of the invention describedabove also comprises:

-   -   a step b1) of preparing said fatty phase D2 which comprises        mixing at least one or more oils and/or one or more waxes, with        an effective amount of a polyelectrolyte polymer;    -   a step c1) of mixing said fatty phase D2 obtained at the end of        step b1), with said aqueous phase D1 obtained at the end of step        a1).

The fatty phase D2 may also comprise liposoluble and/or lipodispersibleactive agents as described above, and more particularlytemperature-sensitive liposoluble and/or lipodispersible active agentsas described above.

Surprisingly, owing to the fact that at least 90% by volume of theparticles of the pulverulent emulsifying composition C1 have a diameterof less than or equal to 250 micrometers, more particularly a diameterof less than or equal to 150 micrometers, more particularly a diameterof less than or equal to 100 micrometers and even more particularly lessthan or equal to 50 micrometers, in the method which is the subject ofthe invention, step c1) of preparing the dispersion D1 by mixing thepulverulent emulsifying composition C1 as defined above, with thecosmetically acceptable aqueous phase, can be advantageously carried outat a temperature of less than or equal to 70° C., more particularly at atemperature of between 20° C. and 60° C., and even more particularly ata temperature of between 20° C. and 40° C.

Step c1) of the method which is the subject of the invention can becarried out by means of any mixing device known to those skilled in theart, for instance by means of a stirring device fitted with an “anchor”spindle, at stirring speeds of between 80 rpm and 1000 rpm, and forinstance by means of a rotor-stator stirring device at stirring speedsof between 1000 rpm and 8000 rpm.

According to another aspect, a subject of the invention is a preparationfor topical use comprising an oil-in-water emulsion prepared accordingto the methods and variants thereof described above.

The expression “for topical use” used in the definition of thepreparation which is the subject of the invention means that saidpreparation is used by application to the skin, the hair, the scalp orthe mucous membranes, whether it is a direct application in the case ofa cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical or pharmaceuticalcomposition, or an indirect application, for example in the case of abodycare product in the form of a textile or paper wipe, or of sanitaryproducts intended to come into contact with the skin or mucousmembranes.

The preparations for topical use, comprising an oil-in-water emulsionprepared according to the methods and variants thereof described above,and which are subjects of the present invention, may be in the form ofcreams, milks, cream gels, fluid lotions or vaporizable fluid lotions.

Generally, these preparations for topical use, comprising anoil-in-water emulsion prepared according to the methods and variantsthereof described above, and which is a subject of the presentinvention, also comprise excipients and/or active ingredients normallyused in the field of formulations for topical use, in particularcosmetic, dermocosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermopharmaceuticalformulations, such as thickening and/or gelling surfactants,stabilizers, film-forming compounds, hydrotropic agents, plasticizers,emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, opacifiers, pearlescent agents,overfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, antioxidants,fragrances, preservatives, conditioning agents, bleaching agentsintended for bleaching bodily hairs and the skin, active ingredientsintended to provide a treating action with respect to the skin or thehair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing avisual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active agents,exfoliant particles and texture agents.

As examples of thickening and/or gelling surfactants optionally presentin the preparation for topical use, comprising an oil-in-water emulsionprepared according to the methods and variants thereof described above,and which is a subject of the present invention, mention may be made of:

-   -   optionally alkoxylated alkyl polyglycoside fatty esters, and        most particularly ethoxylated methylpolyglucoside esters, such        as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose        dioleate, sold respectively under the names Glucamate™ LT and        Glumate™ DOE120:    -   alkoxylated fatty esters, such as the PEG 150 pentaerythrytyl        tetrastearate sold under the name Crothix™ DS53, and the PEG 55        propylene glycol oleate sold under the name Antil™ 141:    -   fatty-chain polyalkylene glcyol carbamates, such as the PPG 14        laureth isophoryl dicarbamate sold under the name Elfacos™ T211,        and the PPG 14 palmeth 60 hexyl dicarbamate sold under the name        Elfacos™ GT2125.

As examples of opacifiers and/or pearlescent agents optionally presentin the preparation for topical use, comprising an oil-in-water emulsionprepared according to the methods and variants thereof described above,and which is a subject of the present invention, mention may be made ofsodium palmitates or stearates or hydroxystearates, magnesium palmitatesor stearates or hydroxystearates, ethylene glycol monostearates ordistearates, polyethylene glycol monostearates or distearates, fattyalcohols, and styrene homopolymers and copolymers, such as the styreneacrylate copolymer sold under the name Montopol™ OP1 by the companySEPPIC.

As examples of texture agents optionally present in the preparation fortopical use, comprising an oil-in-water emulsion prepared according tothe methods and variants thereof described above, and which is a subjectof the present invention, mention may be made of N-acylated derivativesof amino acids, such as lauroyllysine sold under the name Aminohope™ LLby the company Ajinomoto, the polymethyl methacrylates sold under thename Micropearl™ by the company SEPPIC, and nylon-12.

As examples of sunscreens optionally present in the preparation fortopical use, comprising an oil-in-water emulsion prepared according tothe methods and variants thereof described above, and which is a subjectof the present invention, mention may be made of those which appear inamended cosmetic directive 76/768/EEC, annex VII.

The following examples illustrate the invention without, however,limiting it.

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of Pulverulent Emulsifying Compositions which areSubjects of the Invention EXAMPLE 1.1 Preparation of a PulverulentEmulsifying Composition (X) Consisting of Arachidyl Alcohol, BenhenylAlcohol, Arachidyl Polyglucosides and Behenyl Polyglucoside

950.0 g of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, in a70/30 arachidyl alcohol/behenyl alcohol weight ratio, are placed in ajacketed glass reactor, in which a heat-transfer fluid circulates, andwhich is equipped with efficient stirring, at a temperature of 80° C. soas to allow the complete melting of the mixture of alcohols. 97.5 g ofanhydrous glucose are then added gradually to the reaction medium so asto allow homogeneous dispersion thereof. The homogeneous mixture ismaintained at a temperature of 80° C. for 30 minutes, and then 1.43 g of98% sulfuric acid and 0.95 g of 50% hypophosphorous acid are introducedinto the previously prepared homogeneous dispersion. The reaction mediumis placed under a partial vacuum of 90 mbar to 45 mbar, and maintainedat a temperature of 100° C.-105° C. for a period of 5 hours, withevacuation of the water formed by means of a distillation apparatus. Thereaction medium is then cooled to 85° C.-90° C. and neutralized byadding 1.3 g of 40% sodium hydroxide, so as to bring the pH of a 5%solution of this mixture to a value of approximately 6.5. Thecomposition thus obtained is then emptied out at a temperature of 70° C.and maintained at ambient temperature so as to obtain an undividedhomogeneous solid (composition X₁).

The composition (X₁) obtained in the preceding step in the form of anundivided homogeneous solid is then milled by means of a Microniscryomilling device, equipped with liquid nitrogen cooling and atwin-rotor pin mill operating at a frequency of 60 Hz, so as to obtain acomposition (X) which is in the form of a fine powder, the analyticalcharacteristics of which are collated in table 1 below.

EXAMPLE 1.2 Preparation of a Pulverulent Emulsifying Composition (Y)Consisting of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Polyglucosides andStearyl Polyglucoside

952.0 g of a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, in a 50/50cetyl alcohol/stearyl alcohol weight ratio, are placed in a jacketedglass reactor, in which a heat-transfer fluid circulates, and which isequipped with efficient stirring, at a temperature of 80° C. so as toallow complete melting of the mixture of alcohols. 125.0 g of anhydrousglucose are then added gradually to the reaction medium so as to allowhomogeneous dispersion thereof. The homogeneous mixture is maintained ata temperature of 80° C. for 30 minutes, and then 1.12 g of 98° %sulfuric acid and 0.86 g of 50% hypophosphorous acid are introduced intothe previously prepared homogeneous dispersion. The reaction medium isplaced under a partial vacuum of 90 mbar to 45 mbar, and maintained at atemperature of 100° C.-105° C. for a period of 5 hours, with evacuationof the water formed by means of a distillation apparatus. The reactionmedium is then cooled to 85° C.-90° C. and neutralized by adding 1.3 gof 40% sodium hydroxide, so as to bring the pH of a 5% solution of thismixture to a value of approximately 6.5. The composition thus obtainedis then emptied out at a temperature of 70° C. and maintained at ambienttemperature so as to obtain a homogeneous solid (composition Y₁).

The composition (Y₁) obtained in the preceding step in the form of ahomogeneous solid is then milled by means of a Micronis cryomillingdevice, equipped with liquid nitrogen cooling and a twin-rotor pin milloperating at a frequency of 60 Hz, so as to obtain a composition (Y)which is in the form of a fine powder, the analytical characteristics ofwhich are collated in table 1 below.

EXAMPLE 1.3 Preparation of a Pulverulent Emulsifying Composition (Y₂)Consisting of Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Polyglucosides andStearyl Polyglucoside

952.0 g of a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol in a 50/50cetyl alcohol/stearyl alcohol weight ratio, are placed in a jacketedglass reactor, in which a heat-transfer fluid circulates, and which isequipped with efficient stirring, at a temperature of 80° C. so as toallow complete melting of the mixture of alcohols. 125.0 g of anhydrousglucose are then added gradually to the reaction medium so as to allowhomogeneous dispersion thereof. The homogeneous mixture is maintained ata temperature of 80° C. for 30 minutes, and then 1.12 g of 98% sulfuricacid and 0.86 g of 50% hypophosphorous acid are introduced into thepreviously prepared homogeneous dispersion. The reaction medium isplaced under a partial vacuum of 90 mbar to 45 mbar, and maintained at atemperature of 100° C.-105° C. for a period of 5 hours, with evacuationof the water formed by means of a distillation apparatus. The reactionmedium is then cooled to 85° C.-90° C. and neutralized by adding 1.3 gof 40% sodium hydroxide, so as to bring the pH of a 5% solution of thismixture to a value of approximately 6.5. The reaction medium thusneutralized is then introduced into a thin film evaporator, under areduced pressure of 3 to 5 mbar and with a wall temperature of 210° C.so as to distill-off a part of the residual cetyl and stearyl alcohols.The distillation pellet is then emptied out and cooled to ambienttemperature so as to obtain a composition (Y′₂) which is in the form ofa homogeneous solid.

The composition (Y′₂) obtained in the preceding step in the form of ahomogeneous solid is then milled by means of a Micronis cryomillingdevice, equipped with liquid nitrogen cooling and a twin-rotor pin milloperating at a frequency of 60 Hz, so as to obtain a composition (Y₂)which is in the form of a fine powder, the analytical characteristics ofwhich are collated in table 1 below.

EXAMPLE 1.4 Preparation of a Pulverulent Emulsifying Composition (W)Consisting of Lauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, StearylAlcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Lauryl Polyglucosides,Myristyl Polyglucosides, Cetyl Polyglucosides, Stearyl Polyglucoside,Arachidyl Polyglucoside and Behenyl Polyglucosides

955.0 g of a mixture of alcohols consisting, as percentage by weight, of16.5% of lauryl alcohol, 18.5% of myristyl alcohol, 4.5% of a mixture ofcetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol in a 50/50 cetyl alcohol/stearylalcohol weight ratio, and 60.5% of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol andbehenyl alcohol, in a 70/30 arachidyl alcohol/behenyl alcohol weightratio, are placed in a jacketed glass reactor, in which a heat-transferfluid circulates, and which is equipped with efficient stirring, at atemperature of 80° C., so as to allow complete melting of the mixture ofalcohols. The amount of glucose necessary for the molar ratio betweenthe mixture of fatty alcohols and the glucose to be 6/1 is thengradually added to this mixture of alcohols.

The homogeneous mixture is maintained at a temperature of 80° C. for 30minutes, and then 1.23 g of 98% sulfuric acid and 0.92 g of 50%hypophosphorous acid are introduced into the previously preparedhomogeneous dispersion. The reaction medium is placed under a partialvacuum of 90 mbar to 45 mbar, and maintained at a temperature of 100° C.to 105° C. for a period of 5 hours, with evacuation of the water formedby means of a distillation apparatus. The reaction medium is then cooledto 85° C.-90° C. and neutralized by adding 1.6 g of 40% sodiumhydroxide, so as to bring the pH of a 5% solution of this mixture to avalue of approximately 6.5. The composition thus obtained is thenemptied out at a temperature of 70° C. and maintained at ambienttemperature so as to obtain a homogeneous solid (composition W₁).

The composition (W₁) obtained in the preceding step in the form of ahomogeneous solid is then milled by means of a Micronis cryomillingdevice, equipped with liquid nitrogen cooling and a twin-rotor pin milloperating at a frequency of 60 Hz, so as to obtain a composition (W)which is in the form of a fine powder, the analytical characteristics ofwhich are collated in table 1 below.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1.5 Preparation of a Solid Composition (X₁)Consisting of Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, ArachidylPolyglucosides and Behenyl Polyglucoside

The preparation method described in example 1.1 is carried out until thecomposition (X₁) which is in the form of a nonpulverulent solid isobtained; the milling step is not performed. The analyticalcharacteristics of the composition (X₁) are indicated in table 1 below.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1.6 Preparation of a Solid Composition (Y₁)Consisting of Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, ArachidylPolyglucosides and Behenyl Polyglucoside

The preparation method described in example 1.2 is carried out until thecomposition (Y₁) which is in the form of a nonpulverulent solid isobtained; the milling step is not performed. The analyticalcharacteristics of the composition (Y₁) are indicated in table 1 below.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1.7 Preparation of a Solid Composition (W₁)Consisting of Lauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, StearylAlcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Lauryl Polyglucosides,Myristyl Polyglucosides, Cetyl Polyglucosides, Stearyl Polyglucoside,Arachidyl Polyglucoside and Behenyl Polyglucosides

The preparation method described in example 1.4 is carried out until thecomposition (W₁) which is in the form of a nonpulverulent solid isobtained: the milling step is not performed. The analyticalcharacteristics of the composition (W₁) are indicated in table 1 below.

TABLE 1 Analytical characteristics of the compositions (X), (Y), (X₁),(Y₂), (Y₁), (W) and (W₁) (X) (X₁) (Y) (Y₂) (Y₁) (W) (W₁) Appearance at20° C. White White White White White White White (visual determination)powder solid powder powder solid powder solid Acid number 0.3 0.3 0.250.24 0.25 0.27 0.27 (NFT 60204) in mg of KOH/g Hydroxyl number 214 214273 298 273 245 245 (USP XXI NF XVI 01/01/1995) in mg of KOH/g pH at 5%in water 7.1 7.1 6.1 6.1 6.1 6.5 6.5 Water (% by weight) 0.2 0.2 0.1 0.20.1 0.1 0.1 (Standard NFT 73201) Particle size Dv (90) 29 N.A.⁽¹⁾ 64 100N.A.⁽¹⁾ 118 N.A.⁽¹⁾ in micrometers⁽²⁾ Residual alcohols (GC) in 84.584.5 81.0 50.8 81.0 80.1 80.1 % by weight GC: (gas chromatography)⁽¹⁾N.A. = Not applicable ⁽²⁾The analytical characteristic Dv(90), whichindicates the value of the mean diameter below which 90% of the volumeof the particles of the pulverulent emulsifying composition exists, ismeasured using a Malvern Mastersizer 2000 laser particle sizer, equippedwith an MS1-Small Volume Sample Dispersion dispersing device; thediluent used in this measurement is isopropyl myristate.Principle of the Measurement of the Dv(90) Particle Size TechnicalCharacteristic Using the Malvern Mastersizer 2000 Laser Particle SizerEquipped with the MS1-Small Volume Sample Dispersion Dispersing Device

The Malvern Mastersizer 2000 laser particle sizer uses the diffractionof a laser beam at a wavelength of 632 nanometers for measuring the sizeof the particles of the pulverulent composition analyzed. Generally, thesmall particles, present in the pulverulent composition to be analyzed,diffract the light of the laser beam with a low intensity but at a highangle; the large particles, present in the pulverulent composition to beanalyzed, diffract the light of the laser beam with a strong intensitybut at a low angle (according to Mie theory in Gustav Mie, “Beiträge zurOptik trüber Medien, speziell kolloidaler Metallösungen”. Ann. Phys.Leipzig 25, 377-445 (1908); and according to the Franhofer approximationin Hecht, E., pages 396 and 397, (1987). Optics, 2nd edition. AddisonWesley. ISBN 0-201-11611-1). The Malvern Mastersizer 2000 laser particlesizer collects the light diffraction intensity as a function of theangle and links this information, by means of its software, to the sizeof the particles analyzed and present in the pulverulent composition.

Procedure for Measuring the Dv(90) Particle Size TechnicalCharacteristic Using the Malvern Mastersizer 2000 Laser Particle SizerEquipped with the MS1-Small Volume Sample Dispersion Dispersing Device

-   -   A dispersion, comprising a content by volume of 0.0012% of        pulverulent composition to be analyzed, in isopropyl myristate,        is prepared by mixing the necessary volume of the pulverulent        composition to be analyzed, into isopropyl myristate, in a        beaker equipped with a magnetic stirrer. The dispersion thus        prepared is then introduced into the MS1-Small Volume Sample        Dispersion dispersing device equipped with a pump of which the        rotational speed is set at 1500 rpm, so as to circulate this        dispersion of the pulverulent composition to be analyzed in the        measuring system of the Malvern Mastersizer 2000 laser particle        sizer.    -   The operator then enters, into the interface of the measurement        software of the Malvern Mastersizer 2000 laser particle sizer,        the value of the refractive index of the isopropyl myristate,        measured beforehand at the wavelength of the sodium D line        (589.3 nanometers) and at 20° C., by means of an RE 40        refractometer sold by the company Mettler Toledo. During the        measurement of the Dv(90) technical characteristic for the        pulverulent emulsifying compositions (X), (Y), (Y₂) and (W)        according to the invention, the refractive index of the        isopropyl myristate, used as diluent for the requirements of the        particle size measurements, determined at the wavelength of the        sodium D line (589.3 nanometers) and at 20° C. using the RE 40        refractometer sold by the company Mettler Toledo, was measured        at a value of 1.431.    -   At the end of the measurement, carried out according to the        Franhofer approximation model, the Malvern Mastersizer 2000        laser particle sizer software provides several analytical        characteristics of the pulverulent composition to be analyzed,        including the Dv(90) analytical characteristic.

EXAMPLE 2 Preparation of Oil-in-Water Emulsions According to a MethodImplementing a Step of Mixing the Pulverulent Emulsifying CompositionAccording to the Invention into an Oily Phase

A series of oil-in-water emulsions (emulsions E1 to E7), thecompositions of which are indicated in tables 2 and 4 below, is preparedby carrying out, in the following method:

Step a): The emulsifying composition to be tested is added to an oilintroduced beforehand into a reactor brought to a temperature T1, andthe mixture obtained is homogenized for 30 minutes by means of a stirrerfitted with an anchor spindle, at a speed of 80 rpm.Step b): The polyelectrolyte polymer is introduced into the mixtureprepared at the end of step a), maintained at a temperature T1. Theresulting mixture is homogenized for 15 minutes by means of a stirrerfitted with an anchor spindle, at a speed of 80 rpm.Step c): The water is introduced into the mixture prepared at the end ofstep b), and the resulting mixture is brought to a temperature T2, andthen subjected to stirring by means of a rotor-stator emulsifyingdevice, sold by the company Silverson, for a period of 4 minutes at aspeed of 4000 rpm. The mixture resulting from step c) is then cooled toambient temperature. Half the amount of each emulsion thus prepared isthen stored in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperatureof 20° C., for 3 months. The other half of the amount of each emulsionthus prepared is stored in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at atemperature of 45° C., for 3 months. At the end of this 3-month period,the appearance of each emulsion prepared is observed.

The pulverulent emulsifying compositions (X), (Y), (Y₂) and (W)according to the invention and the solid emulsifying compositions (X₁),(Y₁) and (W₁) prepared in comparative examples 1.5, 1.6 and 1.7 weretested according to the method described above, at, for fatty phasepreparation temperatures T1, 25° C. 40° C. and 60° C., and atemulsifying temperatures T2 of 25° C., 40° C. and 60° C.

TABLE 2 Composition and characterization of emulsions E1 to E7 % byweight Emulsion Emulsifier E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 X 2% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0%X₁ 0% 2% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% Y 0% 0% 2% 0% 0% 0% 0% Y₂ 0% 0% 0% 2% 0% 0% 0%Y₁ 0% 0% 0% 0% 2% 0% 0% W 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 2% 0% W₁ 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 2%Oil: C8-C10 20%  20%  20%  20%  20%  20%  20%  triglyceride SIMULGEL 600(4) 0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   Water qs 100% qs100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Sepicide ™ HB (3) 1% 1% 1%1% 1% 1% 1% T1 (a) 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. T2(b) 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. Appearance after H(c) Nf (d) H H Nf Nf Nf 3 months at 20° C. Appearance after H Nf H H NfH Nf 3 months at 45° C. (3) Sepicide ™ HB, which is a mixture ofphenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben andbutylparaben, is a preservative sold by the company SEPPIC; (4)SIMULGEL ™ 600 (acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer;isohexadecane; polysorbate 80) is a thickening and gelling compositionsold by the company SEPPIC; (a): T1 is the temperature for preparationof the emulsifier + oil mixture; (b): T2 is the temperature for mixingthe emulsion; (c): H: homogeneous appearance (d): Nf: emulsion notformed

TABLE 3 Composition and characterization of emulsions E8 to E14 % byweight Emulsions Emulsifier E8 E9 E10 E11 E12 E13 E14 X 2% 0% 0% 0% 0%0% 0% X₁ 0% 2% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% Y 0% 0% 2% 0% 0% 0% 0% Y₂ 0% 0% 0% 2% 0%0% 0% Y₁ 0% 0% 0% v 0% 2% 0% 0% W 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 2% 0% W₁ 0% 0% 0% 0% 0%0% 2% Oil: C8-C10 20%  20%  20%  20%  20%  20%  20%  triglycerideSIMULGEL 600 0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   Water qs100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Sepicide ™ HB 1% 1%1% 1% 1% 1% 1% T1 (a) 40° C. 40° C. 40° C. 40° C. 40° C. 40° C. 40° C.T2 (b) 40° C. 40° C. 40° C. 40° C. 40° C. 40° C. 40° C. Appearance afterH (c) Nf (d) H H Nf H Nf 3 months at 20° C. Appearance after H Nf H H NfH Nf 3 months at 45° C. (a): T1 is the temperature for preparing theemulsifier + oil mixture; (b): T2 is the temperature for mixing theemulsion; (c): H: homogeneous appearance (d): Nf: emulsion not formed

TABLE 4 Composition and characterization of emulsions E15 to E21 % byweight Emulsions Emulsifier E15 E16 E17 E18 E19 E20 E21 X 2% 0% 0% 0% 0%0% 0% X₁ 0% 2% 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% Y 0% 0% 2% 0% 0% 0% 0% Y₂ 0% 0% 0% 2% 0%0% 0% Y₁ 0% 0% 0% v 0% 2% 0% 0% W 0% 0% 0% 0% 0% 2% 0% W₁ 0% 0% 0% 0% 0%0% 2% Oil: C8-C10 20%  20%  20%  20%  20%  20%  20%  triglycerideSIMULGEL 600 0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   0.5%   Water qs100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Sepicide ™ HB 1% 1%1% 1% 1% 1% 1% T1 (a) 25° C. 25° C. 25° C. 25° C. 25° C. 25° C. 25° C.T2 (b) 25° C. 25° C. 25° C. 25° C. 25° C. 25° C. 25° C. Appearance afterH (c) Nf (d) H H Nf H Nf 3 months at 20° C. Appearance after H Nf H H NfH Nf 3 months at 45° C. (a): T1 is the temperature for preparing theemulsifier + oil mixture; (b): T2 is the temperature for mixing theemulsion; (c): H: homogeneous appearance (d): Nf: emulsion not formed

The results included in tables 2 to 4 reveal that the use of thepulverulent emulsifying compositions (X), (Y), (Y₂) and (W) according tothe invention makes it possible to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion whichis stable during storage at 20° C. and at 45° C., by carrying out apreparation method according to the invention which is characterized bya temperature T1 of less than 70° C. during preparation of the fattyphase, and by a temperature T2 of less than 70° C. during theemulsification step.

The use of the comparative emulsifying compositions (X₁), (Y₁) and (W₁)which are in the form of undivided solids does not make it possible toobtain homogeneous oil-in-water emulsions by carrying out a preparationmethod according to the invention which is characterized by atemperature T1 of less than 70° C. during preparation of the fattyphase, and by a temperature T2 of less than 70° C. during theemulsification step.

Thus, for a temperature T1 for preparing the emulsifying system+oilmixture, which is fixed at 60° C., and for an emulsion mixingtemperature T2 which is fixed at 60° C.:

-   -   the emulsifying composition according to the invention (X) makes        it possible to obtain a storage-stable homogeneous emulsion        (E1), whereas the comparative emulsifying composition (X1) does        not make it possible to form a stable homogeneous emulsion (E2);    -   the emulsifying compositions according to the invention (Y) and        (Y2) make it possible to obtain a storage-stable homogeneous        emulsion (respectively, E3 and E4), whereas the comparative        emulsifying composition (Y1) does not make it possible to form a        stable homogeneous emulsion (E5);    -   the emulsifying composition according to the invention (W) makes        it possible to obtain a storage-stable homogeneous emulsion        (E6), whereas the comparative emulsifying composition (W1) does        not make it possible to form a stable homogeneous emulsion (E8).

The obtaining of storage-stable homogeneous emulsions through the use ofthe composition (X) according to the invention is also observed when thetemperatures T1 and T2 are fixed, respectively, at 40° C. (E8) and at25° C. (E15), whereas the use of the comparative emulsifying composition(X1) under the same conditions of temperature T1 and T2 does not make itpossible to form a stable homogeneous emulsion (E9 and E16).

The obtaining of storage-stable homogeneous emulsions through the use ofthe compositions (Y) and (Y2) according to the invention is alsoobserved when the temperatures T1 and T2 are fixed, respectively, at 40°C. (respectively, E10 and E11) and at 25° C. (respectively, E17 andE18), whereas the use of the comparative emulsifying composition (Y1)under the same conditions of temperature T1 and T2 does not make itpossible to form a stable homogeneous emulsion (E12 and E19).

The obtaining of storage-stable homogeneous emulsions through the use ofthe composition (W) according to the invention is also observed when thetemperatures T1 and T2 are fixed, respectively, at 40° C. (E13) and at25° C. (E20), whereas the use of the comparative emulsifying composition(W1) under the same conditions of temperature T1 and T2 does not make itpossible to form a stable homogeneous emulsion (E14 and E21).

EXAMPLE 3 Preparation of Oil-in-Water Emulsions According to a MethodImplementing a Step of Mixing the Pulverulent Emulsifying CompositionAccording to the Invention into an Aqueous Phase

A series of oil-in-water emulsions, the compositions of which areindicated in table 5, is prepared by carrying out, in the followingmethod:

Step a): The emulsifying composition to be tested is added to an aqueousphase introduced beforehand into a reactor brought to a temperature T3,and the mixture obtained is homogenized for 30 minutes by means of astirrer fitted with an anchor spindle, at a speed of 80 rpm.Step b): In parallel to step a), the polyelectrolyte polymer isintroduced into an oil introduced beforehand into a separate reactorbrought to the same temperature. The resulting mixture is homogenizedfor 15 minutes by means of a stirrer fitted with an anchor spindle, at aspeed of 80 rpm.Step c): The aqueous phase comprising the emulsifying composition to betested and prepared at the end of step a) is introduced into the mixtureprepared at the end of step b), and the resulting mixture is brought toa temperature T4, and then subjected to stirring by means of arotor-stator emulsifying device, sold by the company Silverson, for aperiod of 4 minutes at a speed of 4000 rpm. The mixture resulting fromstep c) is then cooled to ambient temperature. Half the amount of eachemulsion thus prepared is then stored in an insulated climatic chamberregulated at a temperature of 20° C., for 3 months. The other half ofthe amount of each emulsion thus prepared is stored in an insulatedclimatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 45° C., for 3 months.

At the end of this 3-month period, the appearance of each emulsionprepared is observed.

The pulverulent emulsifying composition (X) according to the inventionand the solid emulsifying composition (X₁) prepared in comparativeexample 1.5 were tested according to the method described above, at afatty phase preparation temperature T3 of 60° C. and at an emulsifyingtemperature T4 of 60° C.

TABLE 5 Composition and characterization of emulsions E22 to E25Emulsions E22 E23 E24 E25 Emulsifier X 2% 0% 2% 0% X₁ 0% 2% 0% 2% Waterqs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% Sepicide ™ HB⁽³⁾ 1% 1% 1% 1% Oil: C8-C10triglyceride 10%  10%  20%  20%  SIMULGEL 600⁽⁴⁾ 0.5%   0.5%   0.5%  0.5%   T3 (e) 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. 60° C. T4 (f) 60° C. 60° C. 60° C.60° C. Appearance after H Nf H H 3 months at 20° C. Appearance after HNf H Nf 3 months at 45° C. (c): H: homogeneous appearance (d): Nf:emulsion not formed (e): T3 is the temperature for preparing theemulsifier + aqueous phase mixture; (f): T4 is the temperature formixing the emulsion

The results included in table 5 reveal that the use of the pulverulentemulsifying composition (X) according to the invention makes it possibleto obtain oil-in-water emulsions comprising weight proportions of 10%and 20% of oil, which are stable and homogeneous during storage at 20°C. and at 45° C., by carrying out a preparation method according to theinvention which is characterized by a temperature T3 of 60° C. duringpreparation of the aqueous phase, and by a temperature T4 of 60° C.during the emulsification step (emulsions E22 and E24).

The use of the comparative emulsifying composition (X₁) which is in theform of a nonpulverulent solid does not make it possible to obtainoil-in-water emulsions comprising weight proportions of 10% and 20% ofoil, by carrying out a preparation method according to the inventionwhich is characterized by a temperature T3 of 60° C. during preparationof the aqueous phase, and by a temperature T4 of 60° C. during theemulsification step (emulsions E23 and E25).

EXAMPLE 4 Preparation of a Self-Tanning Oil-in-Water Emulsion Accordingto a Method Implementing a Step of Mixing the Pulverulent EmulsifyingComposition According to the Invention into an Aqueous Phase

Dihydroxyacetone is a product commonly used in the cosmetics industry asan agent for artificial tanning and/or browning of the skin; applied tothe latter, it makes it possible to obtain a tanning or browning effecthaving an appearance more or less similar to that which can result fromprolonged exposure to the sun or under an ultraviolet radiation lamp.Dihydroxyacetone has the drawback of being degraded when it is used attemperatures above 70° C., which generally results in undesiredyellowing of the compositions which contain it.

4.1. A series of oil-in-water emulsions comprising dihydroxyacetone andthe emulsifying compositions to be tested, the compostions of which areindicated in table 6, is prepared by carrying out, in the followingmethod:

Step a): The emulsifying composition to be tested is added to an oilintroduced beforehand into a reactor brought to a temperature T5, andthe mixture obtained is homogenized for 30 minutes by means of a stirrerfitted with an anchor spindle, at a speed of 50 rpm.Step b: In parallel to step a), an aqueous phase comprisingdihydroxyacetone is prepared in a separate reactor brought to atemperature of 25° C. The resulting mixture is homogenized for 15minutes by means of a stirrer fitted with an anchor spindle, at a speedof 50 rpm.Step c): The aqueous phase prepared at the end of step b) and apolyelectrolyte polymer are jointly added to the fatty phase comprisingthe emulsifying composition to be tested and prepared at the end of stepa) at a temperature T6, and then the resulting mixture is subjected tostirring by means of a rotor-stator emulsifying device, sold by thecompany Silverson, for a period of 4 minutes at a speed of 3000 rpm. Themixture resulting from step c) is then cooled to ambient temperature.The emulsions prepared are then stored in an insulated climatic chamberregulated at a temperature of 20° C., for 7 days. At the end of this7-day period, the appearance of the emulsion prepared is observed andthe change in the coloration thereof (ΔE) as described below is measuredusing a Minolta CR200 chromameter.

4.2 Principle of the Method for Measuring the Color of a CosmeticComposition

The change in the coloration of compositions comprising dihydroxyacetoneis estimated by comparing over time a numerical characteristic ΔE,calculated from the measurement of 3 constituent parameters of a color:

-   -   the L* parameter, ranging between 0 and 100, which represents        the lightness of the shade, the higher the value, the lighter        the shade;    -   the a* parameter, which ranges from −60 to +60, and expresses        the entire range from green (a*=−60) to red (a*=+60):    -   the b* parameter, which ranges from −60 to +60, and expresses        the entire range from blue (b*=−60) to yellow (b*=+60).

The L*, a* and b* parameters, characterizing an oil-in-water emulsioncomprising dihydroxyacetone, are measured for the various oil-in-wateremulsions prepared at a temperature of 25° C., and then the ΔE value istherefore calculated as follows:ΔE=√((ΔL*)²+(Δa*)²+(Δb*)²),with:

-   -   ΔL*=L* at t2−L* at t1    -   Δa*=a* at t2−a* at t1    -   Δb*=a* at t2−b* at t1

4.3 Experimental Results

The compositions of each emulsion E20 and E21 are indicated in table No.6 hereinafter, as is the characterization of their appearance and of thechange in their coloration (ΔE) after storage for 7 days at 25° C. Theconstituent parameters L*, a* and b* of the color of each emulsion aremeasured with a Minolta CR200 chromameter sold by the company Minolta,so as to measure the corresponding ΔE value.

TABLE 6 Composition and characterization of emulsions E26 and E27Emulsions E26 E27 Emulsifier X   2%   0% X₁   0%   2% Oil phase C12-C15alkyl benzoate  10%  10% Dimethicone DC 200/350 (5)   5%   5% Tocopherol0.05%  0.05%  Sepicide ™ HB 1.0% 1.0% Simulgel ™ INS 100 (6) 1.0% 1.0%Aqueous phase Glycerol 3.0% 3.0% Propylene glycol 2.0% 2.0% Water qs100% qs 100% Citric acid qs pH 4 qs pH 4 Self-tanning agentDihydroxyacetone in solution at 5.0% 5.0% 50% in water T5 (g) 40° C. 80°C. T6 (h) Appearance of the emulsions after 7 Homogeneous Homogeneousdays at 25° C. emulsion emulsion ΔE after 7 days at 25° C. 27.0 4.2 (5)DC 200/350 is a cyclomethicone sold by the company Dow Corning. (6)Simulgel ™ INS 100 (hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer; isohexadecane; polysorbate 60) is a thickening andgelling composition sold by the company SEPPIC. (g): T5 is thetemperature for preparing the emulsifying system + oily phase mixture.(h): T6 is the temperature for mixing the emulsion.

The results recorded in table 6 reveal that the oil-in-water emulsionE26 comprising dihydroxyacetone, prepared with the composition (X)according to the invention, by carrying out a preparation methodaccording to the invention which is characterized by a temperature T5 of40° C. during step a) of preparing the fatty phase, and by a temperatureT6 of 40° C. during emulsification step c), creates a reduced change incoloration after storage for 7 days at a temperature of 25° C., comparedwith the comparative emulsion E27 prepared with the comparativeemulsifying composition (X₁), using a preparation method which ischaracterized by a temperature T5 of 80° C. during step a) of preparingthe fatty phase, and by a temperature T6 of 80° C. during emulsificationstep c). Thus, the value of the ΔE characteristic after 7 days ofstorage at a temperature of 25° C. is 27.0 for the comparative emulsionE27 and 4.2 for the emulsion E26 using the pulverulent emulsifyingcomposition (X) according to the invention and the preparation methodaccording to the invention which is characterized by a temperature T5 of40° C. during step a) for preparing the fatty phase, and by atemperature T6 of 40° C. during emulsification step c).

EXAMPLE 5 Preparation of an Oil-in-Water Emulsion Comprising a VolatileOil According to a Method Implementing a Step of Mixing the PulverulentEmulsifying Composition According to the Invention into an Oily Phase

A series of oil-in-water emulsions comprising a volatile silicone oil,namely the cyclomethicone DC245 sold by the company Dow Corning, and theemulsifying compositions to be tested, the compositions by weight ofwhich are indicated in table 7 for a total theoretical weight (thWt) ofemulsion of 1000 grams, is prepared by carrying out, in the followingmethod:

Step a): The emulsifying composition to be tested is added to an oilintroduced beforehand into a beaker with a volume of 2 liters andbrought to a temperature T7, and the mixture obtained is homogenized for30 minutes by means of a stirrer fitted with an anchor spindle, at aspeed of 80 rpm.Step b): The polyelectrolyte polymer and the water are introducedconcomitantly into the mixture prepared at the end of step a),maintained at a temperature T7. The resulting mixture is subjected tostirring by means of a rotor-stator emulsifying device, sold by thecompany Silverson, for a period of 5 minutes at a speed of 3000 rpm andat a temperature T8. The mixture resulting from step b) is then cooledto ambient temperature and weighed so as to determine the weight Wt1 ofemulsion prepared.The yield (Yld) from preparation of the emulsion, expressed as apercentage, is calculated as follows:Yield(Yld)=(Wt1×100)/thWtHalf the amount of each emulsion thus prepared is then stored in aninsulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of 20° C., for 3months. The other half of the amount of each emulsion thus prepared isstored in an insulated climatic chamber regulated at a temperature of45° C., for 3 months.At the end of this 3-month period, the appearance of each emulsionprepared is observed.

TABLE 7 Composition and characterization of emulsions E28 and E29Emulsion E28 Emulsion E29 Emulsifying system Composition (W) 3% 0%Composition (W₁) 0% 3% Oil: Cyclomethicone DC 245⁽⁷⁾ 20%  20% Simulgel ™ INS 100⁽⁶⁾ 0.5%   0.5%   Water qs 100% qs 100% T7 (i) 40° C.80° C. T8 (j) 40° C. 80° C. Theoretical weight thWt 1000 g 1000 g WeightWt1 of emulsion prepared  991 g  903 g Yield (Yld) 99.1%   90.3%  Appearance after 3 months at 20° C. Homogeneous Homogeneous emulsionemulsion Appearance after 3 months at 45° C. Homogeneous Homogeneousemulsion emulsion ⁽⁷⁾DC 245 is a cyclomethicone sold by the company DowCorning. (i): T7 is the temperature for preparing the emulsifyingsystem + oil phase mixture. (j): T8 is the temperature for mixing theemulsion.

The results recorded in table 7 reveal that the oil-in-water emulsionE28 comprising the volatile oil DC 245, prepared with the composition(W) according to the invention, by carrying out a preparation methodaccording to the invention which is characterized by a temperature T7 of40° C. during step a) of preparing the fatty phase, and by a temperatureT8 of 40° C. during emulsification step b), is characterized by anemulsion preparation yield by weight of 99.1%, whereas the comparativeemulsion E29, prepared with the comparative composition (W₁), bycarrying out a preparation method which is characterized by atemperature T7 of 80° C. during step a) of preparing the fatty phase,and by a temperature T8 of 80° C. during emulsification step b), ischaracterized by an emulsion preparation yield by weight of 90.1%.

The composition (W) according to the invention thus makes it possible toprepare a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a volatile phase with abetter yield by weight, and while reducing the losses of volatile oilowing to evaporation during the implementation of the method forpreparing the oil-in-water emulsion.

Formulations

In the following formulations, the percentages are expressed aspercentage by weight for 100% of the weight of the formulation.

EXAMPLE 6 Care Cream

Cyclomethicone:  10% Simulgel ™ EG: 0.8% Composition (Y):   2% Stearylalcohol:   1% Stearic alcohol: 0.5% Preservative: 0.65%  Lysine: 0.025% EDTA (disodium salt): 0.05%  Xanthan gum: 0.2% Glycerol:   3% Water: qs100%

EXAMPLE 7 Antisun Milk

FORMULA A Composition (Y): 3.0% Sesame oil: 5.0% PARSOL ™ MCX: 5.0% λCarrageenan: 0.10%  B Water: qs 100% C Simulgel ™ NS: 0.80%  DFragrance: qs Preservative: qsProcedure

B is emulsified in A at 60° C. and then C is added at about 60° C.,followed by D at about 30° C., and the pH is adjusted if necessary.

EXAMPLE 8 Moisturizing and Matting Foundation

FORMULA A Water: 20.0%  Butylene glycol: 4.0% PEG-400: 4.0% Pecosil ™PS100: 1.0% Sodium hydroxide: qs pH = 9 Titanium dioxide: 7.0% Talc:2.0% Yellow iron oxide: 0.8% Red iron oxide: 0.3% Black iron oxide:0.05%  B Lanol ™ 99:   8% Caprylic/capric triglyceride   8% Composition(X): 5.00%  C Water: qs 100% Micropearl ™ M305: 2.0% Tetrasodium EDTA:0.05%  D Cyclomethicone: 4.0% Xanthan gum: 0.2% Simulgel ™ EG: 2.5% ESepicide ™ HB: 0.5% Sepicide CI: 0.3% Fragrance: 0.2%Procedure

Mixtures B+D and A+C are prepared at 60° C., and then mixed together andthe whole is emulsified.

EXAMPLE 9 Body Milk

Composition (Y): 3.5% Lanol ™ 37T: 8.0% Solagum ™ L: 0.05%  Water: qs100% Benzophenone-3: 2.0% Dimethicone 350 cPs: 0.05%  Simulgel ™ NS:2.5% Preservative: 0.2% Fragrance: 0.4%

EXAMPLE 10 Makeup-Removing Emulsion with Sweet Almond Oil

Composition (Y2): 5% Sweet almond oil: 5% Water: qs 100% Simulgel ™ INS100: 0.3%   Glycerol: 5% Preservative: 0.2%   Fragrance: 0.3%  

EXAMPLE 11 Moisturizing Cream for Greasy Skin

Composition (Y):   5% Cetyl stearyl octanoate:   8% Octyl palmitate:  2% Water: qs 100% Simulgel ™ NS: 2.6% Micropearl ™ M100: 3.0%Mucopolysaccharides:   5% Sepicide ™ HB: 0.8% Fragrance: 0.3%

EXAMPLE 12 Cream with AHAs for Sensitive Skin

Mixture of N-laurylamino acids:  0.1% to 5% Magnesium potassiumaspartate: 0.002% to 0.5% Lanol ™ 99:   2% Composition (Y): 5.0% Water:qs 100% Simulgel ™ NS: 1.50%  Gluconic acid: 1.50%  Triethanolamine(TEA): 0.9% Sepicide ™ HB: 0.3% Sepicide ™ CI: 0.2% Fragrance: 0.4%

EXAMPLE 13 Make-Up Removing Milk

Composition (X):   3% Primol™ 352: 8.0% Sweet almond oil:   2% Water: qs100% Simulgel™ NS: 0.8% Preservative: 0.2%

EXAMPLE 14 Antisun Milk

Composition (Y): 3.5% Lanol™ 37T: 10.0%  Parsol™ MCX: 5.0% Eusolex™4360: 2.0% Water: qs 100% Sepiplus™ 400: 1.8% Preservative: 0.2%Fragrance: 0.4%

EXAMPLE 15 Cream with AHAs

Composition (Y): 5.0% Deepaline™ PVB: 1.05%  Lanol™ 99: 10.0%  Water: qs100% Gluconic acid: 1.5% TEA (triethanolamine): 0.9% Simulgel™ NS: 1.5%Fragrance: 0.4% Sepicide™ HB: 0.2% Sepicide™ CI: 0.4%

EXAMPLE 16 Self-Tanning Emulsion

Lanol™ 99:  15% Composition (Y): 5.0% Parsol™ MCX: 3.0% Water: qs 100%Dihydroxyacetone: 5.0% Monosodium phosphate: 0.2% Simulgel™ NS: 2.5%Fragrance: 0.3% Sepicide™ HB: 0.8% Sodium hydroxide: qs pH = 5.

EXAMPLE 17 Care Cream

Cyclomethicone:  10% Simulgel™ EG: 2.8% Composition (Y): 4.5%Preservative: 0.65%  Lysine: 0.025%  EDTA (disodium salt): 0.05% Xanthan gum: 0.2% Glycerol:   3% Water: qs 100%

EXAMPLE 18 Care Cream

Cyclomethicone:  10% Sepigel™ 305: 0.8% Composition (Y): 4.5%Perfluoropolymethyl 0.5% isopropyl ether: Preservative: 0.65%  Lysine:0.025%  EDTA (disodium salt): 0.05%  Pemulen™ TR1: 0.2% Glycerol:   3%Water: qs 100%

EXAMPLE 19 Body Milk

FORMULA A Composition (Y2): 3.0% Glyceryl triheptonate: 10.0%  B Water:qs 100% C Simulgel™ EG: 1.0% D Fragrance: qs Preservative: qsProcedure

A is melted at approximately 40° C. B is emulsified in A at 40° C. andthen C is added at about 40° C., followed by D.

EXAMPLE 20 Body Milk

Composition (Y): 3.5% Lanol™ 37T: 8.0% Solagum™ L: 0.05%  Water: qs 100%Benzophenone-3: 2.0% Dimethicone 350 cPs: 0.05%  Simulgel™ NS: 2.8%Preservative: 0.2% Fragrance: 0.4%

EXAMPLE 21 Cream with AHAs

Composition (Y): 5.0% Deepaline™ PVB: 1.05%  Lanol™ 99: 10.0%  Water: qs100% Gluconic acid: 1.5% TEA (triethanolamine): 0.9% Simulgel™ EG: 1.5%Fragrance: 0.4% Sepicide™ HB: 0.2% Sepicide™ CI: 0.4%

EXAMPLE 22 Makeup-Removing Milk

Simulsol™ 165: 4% Composition (Y2): 1% Caprylate/caprate triglyceride:15%  Pecosil™ DCT: 1% Demineralized water: qs Capigel™ 98: 0.5%  Simulgel™ INS 100: 1% Proteol™ APL: 2% Sodium hydroxide: qs pH = 7

EXAMPLE 23 Antisun Cream

Simulsol™ 165: 3% Composition (Y): 2% C12-C15 benzoate: 8% Pecosil™ PS100: 2% Dimethicone: 2% Cyclomethicone: 5% Octyl para-methoxycinnamate:6% Benzophenone-3: 4% Titanium oxide: 8% Xanthan gum: 0.2%   Butyleneglycol: 5% Demineralized water: qs 100% Simulgel™ NS: 1.5%  Preservative, fragrance: qs

EXAMPLE 24 Vitamin-Containing Cream

Simulsol™ 165: 5% Composition (Y): 1% Caprylic/capric triglycerides:20%  Vitamin A palmitate: 0.2%   Vitamin E acetate: 1% Micropearl™ M305: 1.5%   Simulgel™ 600: 2% Water qs 100% Preservative, fragrance qs

EXAMPLE 25 Antisun Self-Tanning Gel

Composition (Y): 3.0% Glyceryl triheptanoate: 10.0%  Deepaline™ PVB:1.05%  Simulgel™ EG: 2.2% Water: qs 100% Dihydroxyacetone:   5%Fragrance: 0.1% Sepicide™ HB: 0.3% Sepicide™ CI: 0.1% Parsol™ MCX: 4.0%

EXAMPLE 26 Self-Tanning Cream Containing α-Hydroxy Acids

Composition (Y): 5.0% Deepaline™ PVB: 1.05%  Lanol™ 99: 10.0%  Water: qs100% Gluconic acid: 1.5% Dihydroxyacetone:   3% Triethanolamine: 0.9%Simulgel™ EG: 1.5% Fragrance: 0.4% Sepicide™ HB: 0.2% Sepicide™ CI: 0.4%

EXAMPLE 27 Self-Tanning Cream Containing α-Hydroxy Acids for SensitiveSkin

Mixture of N-lauroylamino acids:  0.1% to 5% Magnesium potassiumaspartate: 0.002% to 0.5% Composition (X): 5.0% Lanol™ 99: 2.0% Water:qs 100% Lactic acid: 1.5% Dihydroxyacetone: 3.5% Triethanolamine: 0.9%Simulgel™ NS: 1.5% Fragrance: 0.4% Sepicide™ HB: 0.3% Sepicide™ CI: 0.2%The definitions of the commercial products used in the examples are asfollows:Capigel™ 98 is a liquid thickener based on an acrylate copolymer, soldby the company SEPPIC.Lanol™ 99 is isononyl isononanoate sold by the company SEPPIC.Micropearl™ 100 is an ultrafine powder with a very soft feel and amatting action, sold by the company Matsumo.Sepicide™ CI, imidazolidineurea, is a preservative sold by the companySEPPIC.Pemulen™ TR1 is an acrylic polymer sold by Goodrich.Simulsol™ 165 is self-emulsifying glyceryl stearate sold by the companySEPPIC.Sepicide™ HB, which is a mixture of phenoxyethanol, methylparaben,ethylparaben, propylparaben and butylparaben, is a preservative sold bythe company SEPPIC.Parsol™ MCX is octyl para-methoxy cinnamate, sold by the companyGivaudan.Lanol™ 37T is glyceryl triheptanoate, sold by the company SEPPIC.Solagum™ L is a carrageenan sold by the company SEPPIC.Eusolex™ 4360 is a sunscreen sold by the company Merck.Deepaline™ PVB is an acylated wheat protein hydrolysate sold by thecompany SEPPIC.Proteol™ APL is a foaming surfactant sold by the company SEPPIC.Micropearl™ M 305 is a silky water-dispersible powder based oncrosslinked methyl methacrylate copolymer.Simulgel™ EG: self-inversible inverse latex of copolymer such as thosedescribed in international publication WO 99/36445 (INCI name: sodiumacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and isohexadecane andpolysorbate 80), sold by the company SEPPIC.Sepiplus™ 400: self-inversible inverse latex of copolymers such as thosedescribed in international publication WO 2005/040230 (INCI name:Polyacrylate-13 & Polyisobutene & Polysorbate 20), sold by the companySEPPIC.Simulgel™ NS: self-inversible inverse latex of thickening copolymers(INCI name: hydroxyethyl acrylatelsodium acryloyldimethyl tauratecopolymer and squalane and Polysorbate 60), sold by the company SEPPIC.Simulgel™ INS 100: self-inversible inverse latex of thickeningcopolymers (INCI name: hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer and isohexadecane and Polysorbate 60), sold by thecompany SEPPIC.Simulgel™ 600: self-inversible inverse latex of thickening copolymers(INCI name: acrylamideisodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer andisohexadecane and Polysorbate 80), sold by the company SEPPIC.Sepigel™ 305: self-inversible inverse latex of thickening copolymers(INCI name: polyacrylamide and C13-C14 isoparaffin and Laureth-7), soldby the company SEPPIC.Primol™ 352 is a mineral oil sold by the company Exxon.Pecosil™ DCT is sodium dimethicone PEG-7 acetyl methyl taurate sold bythe company Phoenix.Pecosil™ PS100 is dimethicone PEG-7 sold by the company Phoenix.

The invention claimed is:
 1. A method for preparing an oil-in-watercosmetic emulsion by emulsification of an aqueous phase D1 with a fattyphase D2, comprising a step a1) of preparing said aqueous phase D1 whichcomprises mixing an effective amount of the pulverulent composition C1with water or an aqueous dispersion of one or more cosmeticallyacceptable hydrophilic ingredients, wherein pulverulent composition C1comprise, for 100% of its weight: from 5% by weight to 70% by weight, ofat least one compound of formula (I):R—O-(G)_(x)-H  (I) in which the R radical represents a saturated linearaliphatic radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, G representsthe residue of a reducing sugar selected from the group consisting ofglucose, xylose and arabinose, and x represents a decimal number greaterthan or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10; and from 95% by weightto 30% by weight, of one or more alcohols of formula (II):R′—OH  (II) in which the R′ radical, which may be identical to ordifferent than the R radical as defined above, represents a saturatedlinear aliphatic radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, whereinat least 90% by volume of particles in said pulverulent composition havea diameter of less than or equal to 250 micrometers wherein thepulverulent composition C1 comprises a non-zero proportion by weight ofat least one compound of formula (Ia), corresponding to formula (I) asdefined above in which R represents a saturated linear aliphatic radicalcontaining from 20 to 22 carbon atoms, and a non-zero proportion byweight of at least one alcohol of formula (IIa), corresponding toformula (II) as defined above in which R′ represents a saturated linearaliphatic radical containing from 20 to 22 carbon atoms wherein furtherthe pulverulent composition C1 comprises, for 100% of its weight: from5% by weight to 20% by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ia);from 1.5% by weight to 10% by weight of at least one compound of formula(Ib) corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, in which Rrepresents a saturated linear aliphatic radical containing from 12 to 14carbon atoms; from 1% by weight to 10% by weight of at least onecompound of formula (Ic) corresponding to formula (I) as defined above,in which R represents a saturated linear aliphatic radical containingfrom 16 to 18 carbon atoms; from 45% by weight to 80% by weight of atleast one compound of formula (IIa); from 5% by weight to 10% by weightof at least one compound of formula (IIb) corresponding to formula (II)as defined above, in which R′ represents a saturated linear aliphaticradical containing from 12 to 14 carbon atoms; and from 0% by weight to10% by weight of at least one compound of formula (IIc) corresponding toformula (II) as defined above, in which R′ represents a saturated linearaliphatic radical containing from 16 to 18 carbon atoms.
 2. A method forpreparing an oil-in-water cosmetic emulsion by emulsification of anaqueous phase D1 with a fatty phase D2, comprising a step a1) ofpreparing said aqueous phase D1 which comprises mixing an effectiveamount of the pulverulent composition C1 with water or an aqueousdispersion of one or more cosmetically acceptable hydrophilicingredients, wherein pulverulent composition C1 comprise, for 100% ofits weight: from 5% by weight to 70% by weight, of at least one compoundof formula (I):R—O-(G)_(x)-H  (I) in which the R radical represents a saturated linearaliphatic radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, G representsthe residue of a reducing sugar selected from the group consisting ofglucose, xylose and arabinose, and x represents a decimal number greaterthan or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10; and from 95% by weightto 30% by weight, of one or more alcohols of formula (II):R′—OH  (II) in which the R′ radical, which may be identical to ordifferent than the R radical as defined above, represents a saturatedlinear aliphatic radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, whereinat least 90% by volume of particles in said pulverulent composition havea diameter of less than or equal to 250 micrometers, wherein thepulverulent composition C1 comprises for 100% of its weight: from 5% byweight to 70% by weight of at least one compound of formula (Ic)corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, in which R represents asaturated linear aliphatic radical containing from 16 to 18 carbonatoms, and from 95% by weight to 30% by weight of at least one compoundof formula (IIc) corresponding to formula (II) as defined above, inwhich R′ represents a saturated linear aliphatic radical containing from16 to 18 carbon atoms.
 3. The method as defined in claim 1, wherein thepulverulent composition C1 as defined in claim 1, in which at least 90%by volume of the particles have a diameter of less than or equal to 100micrometers.
 4. The method as defined in claim 1, further comprising: astep b1) of preparing said fatty phase D2 which comprises mixing atleast one or more oils and/or one or more waxes, with an effectiveamount of a polyelectrolyte polymer; a step c1) of mixing said fattyphase D2 obtained at the end of step b1), with said aqueous phase D2obtained at the end of step a1).